Monday, February 12, 2007

Red Chilli

Fri 09 Feb 2007

I've written about Red Chilli a couple of times before, and while I've usually been quite enthusiastic I've always wondered what I'd think if I actually visited without sitting in the pub beforehand.

On Friday night, a half pint of Golden Pippin into the evening, I actually managed it. In summary, I actually found it rather disappointing. And at this point, I should add the disclaimer that I am not the greatest fan, or aficionado, of Chinese (Szechuan or otherwise) food.

The dining experience didn't start well. We had a reservation, we arrived and our table was not ready. And this was at 7:30pm! Red Chilli doesn't have a waiting area, and while the bar is near the front counter, it's not set up for hanging around. The front of house staff didn't even suggest that we order drinks, so it's lucky we took it upon ourselves!

In the past, influenced as I have been by a few beers, I've been less than impressed by the level of service at Red Chilli, and Friday night did very little (if anything) to improve that impression. I do not want to be left loitering in a lobby for a reserved table and I most certainly don't want to hear an absolute cacophony of crockery while the staff set the table next to me. If you add this to previous encounters (where the staff haven't been able explain dishes on the extensive, but scantily worded, menu) you can probably understand why I'm feeling less than generous.

But let's move from service to food. As usual, the portions are hugely generous. We were at a table of six and started with just three starters: half an aromatic duck, a serve of salt and pepper ribs and a cold spicy beef salad. I do quite enjoy the salt and pepper ribs and the spicy beef, although I personally find the aromatic duck a little pointless (partly because I don't like hoisin sauce, and partly because I find the cost offensive). We moved on to two hot pot style dishes - one pork and one chicken, a tofu dish and pork in sweet vinegar. The pork in sweet vinegar, chosen by Andy, was a bit of a disappointment as it was more a sweet and sour style pork - battered, fried and overly sweet. The chicken in the hot pot had quite a strange texture - almost no texture at all. The pork in the hot pot was sliced incredibly finely and the chillis in it had a fearsome kick. The tofu I didn't like at all.

Now - I realise I am very much in the minority here. Most people I know (and this includes someone from Hong Kong, who is better placed to make a judgement than me) love Red Chilli. You cannot fault portion size or even value for money (I guess - for the above food, which was more than enough for 6 people, with beers, it cost £17.50 a head, including tip). But I often leave feeling as though the staff feel they have done me a favour by serving me. At best I could describe the service as desultory. And I always feel the food is less than clever. Perhaps part of that is that I'm sceptical about how well a brigade can execute such a massive menu. And perhaps part of that is that I am always left feeling as though I've eaten a small salt pan, with a good dash of oil.

So - Red Chilli - good for a post beer feed, but I think for slightly more serene night out I'll take my stomach elsewhere.

1. Red Chilli, 6 Great George St, Leeds LS1 3DW, phone 0113 242 9688.

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