Chao Sq

NOTE: Chao Sq has closed, but D-Fusion is still open.

Wed 26 July 2006

Back in June we had a bit of an Oriental night out, which culminated in a visit to the Geisha Club on New Briggate. This is part of the DFusion multi-venue, which includes the new Chao Sq Chinese restaurant. As Eating Leeds does rather well if you google for Chao Sq Leeds (yes, we come top!) we thought it was only right that we go along and sample the food.

I'm hardly a Chinese food aficionado - frankly, I'm far more likely to head for a curry, but I am discovering that there is a lot of Chinese food out there which isn't reminiscent of dingy takeaways. Andy's got a very solid head start on me in this respect.

So - our visit to Chao Sq was around half 8 on a Wednesday night. The restaurant is quite large, although it does have a fair few tables packed in. The decoration is all very contemporary and I was a particular fan of the tables and chairs. On this occasion, there was only one other group in the restaurant when we arrived, which seems a bit of a shame, as the restaurant certainly deserves to be busier.

We started with a Tsing-Tao beer and an orange juice while we scoped the menu. It is a fairly 'typical' Chinese menu: quite lengthy, remarkably short on descriptions. However, it is also very cheap - with main courses coming in around £7. Considering how smart the restaurant's interior is, this is quite refreshing.

For starters we opted for the salt and pepper ribs and spring rolls. The Eating Leeds jury was divided on the ribs. I thought they were OK but Andy thought they were at least on a par with, if not better than, those available at Red Chilli. They are smaller (a bad thing, according to me, a good thing according to Andy), although the serving size itself is generous. The fresh topping is delicious, and good and spicy. The spring rolls were a different issue - we both thought they were below standard. There was very little filling and the pastry was a bit stodgy on the inside, as though it were a trifle too thick or undercooked.

Where would our main courses take us?

I had chosen the pork belly, Szechuan style - which meant I was quizzed about whether or not I like spicy food. This always comes across as incredibly patronising - there is no way to get around it. If the dish is very spicy this should be indicated on the menu! The pork belly certainly delivered in the spicy stakes - generous slices of pork belly, complete with a good layer of fat (mmmm!) were sauced with a chilli laden mix, and masses of large, cut red chillies. If you think you're coming down with a cold - I recommend you get some of this into you! Andy had chosen a beef dish. Unfortunately, his choice caused a huge amount of consternation - hence my inability to remember the dish's name! The waitress checked twice what is was he was ordering and then informed him that it was a hot pot (again - perhaps this type of information should be on the menu) and eventually it got to the point that Andy was rather hoping he could change his order. However, this wasn't an option and we were both glad he didn't.

The hot pot arrived, absolutely sizzling, in a large, hot, stone pot. The pot was so hot that the beef and sauce immediately in contact with it were caramelising into some very tasty treats. The dish was spitting and hissing away, but daring to dive in and pull out beef, mushrooms and greens was well worth it. It was absolutely delicious!

Given how tasty (and how generous) our main courses were I was glad we'd only opted for egg fried rice. We certainly didn't need any more to eat or anything to make the food more interesting. We were utterly defeated by the size of the dishes (and the staff are happy to doggy bag - so you'll also get lunch or dinner for the following day), and manged to round the meal off with just a pot of green tea.

Two starters, two mains, 1 egg fried rice, 3 beers, 2 orange juices and 1 green tea came to around £40 - pretty much a bargain in my mind.

I'm not going to be entirely uncritical of Chao Sq. The service was attentive and friendly, but not really quite up to scratch. I doubt if I'd had complicated questions about individual dishes our waitress could have answered them, I don't think an order should have to be checked twice, and I managed to be completely flummoxed when I was asked whether I wanted a bowl or plate with my main course. Apparently this is to establish whether or not a diner will be using chopsticks or a fork. I looked somewhat panicked and responded with 'however it comes', which meant I ended up with a plate and chasing rice around it with chopsticks! Of course, I could argue that the staff should have observed me eating my spring rolls with chopsticks (maybe they had!).

Service niceties aside, Chao Sq is definitely somewhere I'll go again - and definitely somewhere I'll take visitors. It's a bright, fashionable restaurant, which offers tasty food in sensibly priced and generous portions. What more can you ask for?

1. Chao Sq, 28 New Briggate, Leeds, LS1 6NU, phone 0113 245 2534

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SHF: Ice Ice Baby

This month, Sugar High Friday is hosted by The Delicious Life and, because it's summer, the theme is sweet, icy things.

All well and good if you have an ice cream maker no doubt. But that's one kitchen contraption I don't have and I really lack the patience to dig a container out of the freezer every half hour and rough up desserts as they freeze. That's just crazy!

I have, in the past, made a very good frozen dessert from Stephanie Alexander's The Cook's Companion. What was great about this dessert was that it was based on egg whites AND you just straight out froze the mixture. No churning or ice cream making equipment required. Anyway, I don't have a copy of this book to hand, but, as luck would have it, Australian Gourmet Traveller (the same June 2006 edition which is getting a bit of a thrashing) had a recipe for stracciatella semifreddo. Egg whites left over (they freeze excellently) from the clafoutis this was definitely the way forward!

I made half the mixture given in the original recipe, with a few tweaks along they way ...

Whisk 3 egg whites to soft peaks then beat in 45 g of caster sugar until mixture is thick and glossy with firm peaks. Beat in 50 g of honey (I had no honey so I used a good tablespoon of golden syrup - it worked out just fine). Fold in 200 g mascarpone, followed by 50 g ricotta mixed with 1 tbsp of milk. I found it quite tough to fold in the cheeses, so next time I think I'll beat the ricotta, mascarpone and milk together to form something a bit lighter and more fold-able. When well combined, finally fold in 25g of coarsely grated dark chocolate.

Pour the mixture into a baking paper lined 1L container, pop on the lid and freeze overnight.

When you're almost ready to serve, leave it in the fridge to soften for a bit and then slice, serve and eat!

tagged with: shf semifreddo

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Tooth Rotter

Mon 17 July 2006

If you're on a diet ... look away now. These brownies, made for a mid-week BBQ and fed to one house mate and two lots of work mates, and pure sugar and butter laden goodness. In fact, they're so sugar and butter laden I pretty much only make them once a year - they are truly special treat material. They also take hardly any time to make and pretty much everyone loves them.

The original recipe came from a very early Olive magazine. I'll update with the exact issue at some point this weekend.

To make your brownies - pre heat your oven to 180C and line a baking dish or roasting tin with foil.

Melt 250 g of butter (I'm not kidding). In your food processor (or mixing bowl) combine 200g of golden granulated sugar, 200g muscovado sugar, 80g of cocoa, a pinch of ground cloves, 1 tsp of cinnamon and 1 tsp of allspice.

Add the melted butter, 3 eggs and 140 g of plain flour. Combine well. Add 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced (the secret ingredient!).

When everything is well combined, add 100g of dark chocolate, roughly chopped. Roughness is determined by how uniformly chocolate-y you want your brownies - rougher for chunks of melty chocolate in the cake mixture ... mmm. You can imagine how amazingly tasty this mix is before it's even cooked!

Pour the mix into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes.

Allow to cool in the pan and then cut into little squares ... feed to hungry mouths everywhere!

tagged with: brownies

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Bar Crawling

Fri 14 Jul 2006
Sun 16 Jul 2006

Well, it was supposed to be a quiet weekend ... nothing planned, nothing to do, a bit of cooking and eating, lots of sleeping and newspaper reading.

That plan was out the door by about 6pm on Friday night. I guess there are worse ways to spend your time.

A hardy group of three, we started at The Terrace, on the Headrow. I'm not usually hugely complimetary about this place - there are, in my opinion, many better places to go. However, it does have the advantage of having a comparatively large outdoor area which is perfect for a warm Friday afternoon.

Beer disappointment was on the horizon. Once I had actually established that I wanted to know what beer was on hand-pull (when I started getting a list including Peroni I was pretty confused!), I was told that it was IPA. So obviously then I had to clarify - was it Greene King IPA? Apparently it was - or rather, it would have been, if it had been on. Grr. Kronenbourg Blanc for me then. Note to The Terrace - get your staff sorted out!

We moved on from The Terrace to Dr Okell's (formerly Baroque) - where the lager drinker was satisfied with Amstel and the real drinkers enjoyed Copper Dragon's Golden Pippin. It was a bit of a shame to be inside on such a lovely afternoon, but Dr Okell's is such a good pub and the beer is kept so well that even I am prepared to forego some sunshine.

Our next move was to North - this was for a quick drink before going home, although going home turned into sharing a taxi to Headingley and once we were in Headingley ... well, we had to have a quick drink ...

Arcadia was closing - which was a huge shame - and the staff there suggested either the Box or the Skyrack. The Box was closest so that's where we went. At first I was a bit suspicious about this place - it was all a bit ram-pack full of students. But the beer was Grolsch and it had a pretty cracking atmosphere. The music was loud and cheerful, there was enough space (just) to have a bit of a dance and you could actually even hear yourself think and have a conversation (sort of). I probably wouldn't head there for a quiet afternoon drink, but as a bit of a late night venue it does actually tick quite a few boxes.

The only way to round off a night like this is with a pizza with plenty of chilli on it, which was duly did. A good time had by all and not a duff venue in sight ...

By the time Sunday came around the sunshine was calling and it was time for a relaxing pint - so we headed to Whitelocks and, in my case, enjoyed some very tasty Daleside Blonde. A couple of drinks in we decided it was time for a wander, and as I was reluctant to head indoors we made our way to Millenium Square to Ha!Ha! Bar and Canteen. I've only been to a Ha!Ha! once before, when I called into the one in Guildford and drank the most expensive beer on the planet in the smokiest room. Ha!Ha! in Leeds has a large outdoor area and we were able to find a table easily. However, £3.30 for a pint of Red Stripe has to make Ha!Ha! one of the more expensive venues in Leeds. And too expensive for us!

One pint and we were off next door to the Spice Bar at the Spice Quarter - where we enjoyed pints of Cobra for just £2.25 AND we got to sit outside. It's a no brainer where we'll be heading next time!

Next stop - obviously by this stage of the afternoon the only place to go was North!

The afternoon was drawing to a close, and our stomachs were calling, so we headed to Red Chilli. Wary of the monstrous serves we opted for 2 starters (Beijing dumplings being Andy's favourite, and the salt and pepper ribs being my weakness), 1 main (a stir fried pork chilli dish), and a serve of soft noodles. The food was its usual consistent excellent self - massive servings (we couldn't quite make it through everything we'd ordered), all incredibly tasty and more-ish. I think I would be happy to go there and just have a plate of the salt and pepper ribs - they are huge, meaty ribs, lovely and crisp, and served with loads of spring onions ... mmm.

Thank goodness for Mondays - I need to be back at work for a bit of a rest!

Friday
1. The Terrace, The Stumps, The Headrow, Leeds, LS1 3AH, phone: 0113 2455503
2. Dr. Okell's, 159, The Headrow, Leeds, LS1 5RG, phone: 0113 242 9674
3. North, 24, New Briggate, Leeds, LS1 6NU, phone: 0113 242 4540
4. The Box, 8, Otley Rd, Leeds, LS6 2AD, phone: 0113 224 9266

Sunday
1. Whitelocks, Turks Head Yard, Leeds, LS1 6HB, phone: 0113 245 3950
2. Ha!Ha! Bar and Canteen, The Electric Press, 4 Millennium Square, Leeds, LS2 3AD, phone: 0113 244 8835
3. Spice Quarter, 2, Millennium Square, Leeds, LS2 3AD, phone: 0113 246 9241
4. North, 24, New Briggate, Leeds, LS1 6NU, phone: 0113 242 4540
5. Red Chilli, 6, Great George St, Leeds, LS1 3DW, phone: 0113 242 9688

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Cherries!

Tues 11 Jul 2006

I've been waiting for some ENGLISH (not Spanish) cherries to appear for what seems like ages, so I was pretty excited to spot them at the market on the weekend for the knockdown price of £1 for 1lb (this also amused me for a good 30 seconds or so). I'm constantly amazed by how cheap the Leeds City markets are compared to the supermarket. After all - I thought the reason we all shopped at supermarkets was because they offered such amazing bargains ... maybe that's what they just want us to think ...

Anyway, cherries in hand - the only thing to do was to make the cherry clafoutis, from Gordon Ramsay's Just Desserts.

While I could quite easily justify clafoutis and nothing else for dinner I couldn't really just serve up pudding and nothing else so I found a recipe for a fantastic roast vegetable pasta dish from Cucina Italiana, which came out as an attachment to an Australian Gourmet Traveller quite a while back. Back to the market before I could get in the kitchen ...

For pasta sauce, take one aubergine, cut into about 1cm square cubes, place in a colander and salt. Leave for half an hour.

Heat roasting dish with plenty of olive oil in a 200C oven. Rinse the aubergine well and pat dry. When the roasting dish is hot, add the aubergine, roughly chopped fresh tomatoes, a roughly chopped red onion and a good few sprigs of fresh thyme. The original recipe calls for garlic but when I discovered I had none I subsituted the thyme. Return to oven for a good 45 minutes or so - give it a bit of a stir every now and then, and add a bit more olive oil if you need.

Cook your pasta, and before draining reserve about half a cup of cooking water. Mix some of the cooking water into the roast vegies, before mixing them through the pasta. Add a generous handful of roughly chopped parsley. Serve with plenty of grated parmesan and a good red. We drank a Porcupine Ridge 2004 Merlot from South Africa, which was absolutely delicious.

This dish has plenty to recommend it - lots of different colours and different vegetables mean it HAS to be healthy. In addition, although it might look like it takes a while, you don't have to baby sit it during the cooking (I managed to fit in all sorts of other activities while preparing it) which makes it perfect for a mid week meal.

And ... I think it even looks pretty good too!


Moving along to the clafoutis - this is another fantastic weeknight dish, as it's preferable to prepare the batter the night before.

The batter is made of 50g of ground almonds, 15g plain flour, 100g caster sugar, 2 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks, 250mL cream and a pinch of salt. Whiz up the dry ingredients and then add the wet and make sure it's well combined. This makes about a pint of liquid. Leave in the fridge overnight. Make sure you keep the spare egg whites - they freeze well for future meringues!

When ready to make, preheat the oven to 190C, butter a pie dish and add a good layer of pitted cherries (cherries pit easily - cut in half around the stone and the cherry will come apart and you can remove the stone from the half it's left in). Get the batter mix and give it a stir (it will separate a little overnight) and pour over. Bake in oven for 25 minutes, or until golden and top is set.

Serve dusted with icing sugar (not essential) and plenty of cream (vital). Mmmmm ...


After polishing off all this lovely food there was nothing else to do but go to bed and read cookbooks ... I was interested to see the slant other writers give to clafoutis - Julia Child (Mastering the Art of French Cooking) gives quite a few variations and Patricia Wells includes a version in At Home In Provence. I found it quite interesting that both Child and Wells use granulated rather than caster sugar (though I wonder if that is a US/UK thing), and that neither leaves the batter overnight nor uses almonds. Loads of variations spring to mind without help - use different fruit, macerate fruit in an appropriate liqueur, add some vanilla essence and so on. Maybe one day I'll even get around to trying a different recipe!

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Livebait

Sat 8 Jul 2006

Some friends are moving to Bermuda (yes, some people have all the luck) and we managed to catch up with them on Saturday night before they head off. Where should we take them to dinner? We were keen to ensure Leeds impressed, but we'd done Anthony's the weekend before. We drew up a short list, offered our guests a choice of cuisines and Livebait was decided upon.

For a start - it's a fish restaurant, so if you don't like (or are allergic to) things piscatorial, it pretty much rules this out as a venue. The restaurant is part of the Groupe Chez Gerard, so you'll also find Livebaits in Manchester and London (Waterloo, Covent Garden and Fetter Lane). The Leeds restaurant has a bar attached, which is useful to know if you're running early. The service is efficient, and we arrived on a Saturday night at 1930 (for a 1930 booking) and were seated straight away - which is always a good start.

I actually found the menu a little short - not in terms of dishes but in terms of inspiration. Also, given that this is a fish restaurant I think it would be really useful if they focussed a bit more on sustainable fish and indicated those fish that had come from sustainable stocks. Little rant over.
Andy and I originally chose the same dishes for starter and main, but a bit of negotiation later meant that I traded the starter while he traded the main. I started with the Cornish squid in tempura batter with chilli sauce. The squid was fine - tender and not rubbery and while there was nothing wrong with the batter I don't know that I'd put it in the 'tempura' league (perhaps they should visit Chino Latino for an example). The 2 chilli sauces were pretty disappointing - both very standard sweet chilli sauces - one with 'bits' in and one smooth. Both really a bit too unsubtle to go with squid, too. I suspect someone in the kitchen might have been a bit better off mixing a bit of fish sauce, vinegar and chilli to produce a dipping sauce ...

Andy started with the whitebait which were served with tzatziki, which I thought was a really refreshing change to a heavy aioli or mayonnaise based sauce. The little fishies were tasty - quite well cooked and very small. Mmmm ...

Our guests had crab cakes and prawns and polished them all off so we assume that it was satisfactory.

On to the main courses and I chose the seabass with chilli crab on noodles with hoi sin sauce. While eating seabass per se isn't bad it is one of those fish that rather depends on how it's caught. Now, if you are in a restaurant with friends (or work mates) how likely are you really to start quizzing your waiter about the fish's provenance? You're not. And I think that's why a restaurant, especially one which specialises in fish, has a responsibility to give its diners as much information as possible. Ethical dilemmas aside the fish was lovely - just simply pan fried, but I was pretty unconvinced by the rest of the dish. I should disclose I'm not particularly partial to hoi sin, though the sauce was used as a light dressing and didn't adversely affect the overall taste. The chilli crab mix was pretty dull and the noodles were ... well, just egg noodles.

Andy had the fish tagine which certainly looked and smelled very good, although not hugely fragrant. The tagine came with a good helping of mussels, and a small portion of couscous. Our guests ate the seabass with noodles as well as a huge portion of cod with mash.

My overriding impression of the food was that it was OK although certainly nothing to get excited about. Since I also ate fish for lunch on Sunday I have to say that the dinner really suffered for being sandwiched between two really outstanding fish meals. I wasn't really expecting Livebait to equal the fish I ate at Anthony's last weekend but at the same time it would have been nice!

I didn't get to have dessert ... everyone else seemed to be replete. As usual, the meal passed in record time - no time to linger and chat.

I'd recommend Livebait if you're entertaining conservative eaters. Just make sure you get your wallet size 'fish to eat' guide from Fish Online first!

Livebait, Shears Yard, The Calls, LS2 7EH, phone: 0113 244 4144.

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Dinner at Anthony's

Sat 1 Jul 2006

Saturday night was the big night - the long booked and much anticipated dinner at Anthony's.

Having already tried Anthony's for lunch, and Anthony's at Flannels for lunch, I was looking forward to adding the most significant string to the bow (afternoon tea at Flannels still on the list!).

It was a hot day in Leeds and most of the population seemed to have spent the entire afternoon in the pub watching a game of football. Fortunately, the bar at Anthony's was an absolute oasis of calm and a beer and a glass of champagne did a good job of starting the cooling down process.

Although we had both made our choices from the a la carte menu we eventually opted for the tasting menu - 7 courses (plus amuse-bouche) for £60 a head. As usual - the whole table has to opt for the tasting menu, which is OK when there's only two of you and you both eat everything. The maitre d' wasn't too keen to tell us what we'd be eating ... she said some dishes were from the main menu, some dishes weren't on the menu ... and apart from being a bit scared I'd be served tripe or lung, it was all very exciting!

The sommelier recommended drinking half bottles rather than trying to match the food with one wine. This was a very clever idea and we started with a half bottle of 2002 Gewürztraminer, R.Mure Côte de Rouffach from Alsace. I love gewurztraminer and it was a very lovely wine - incredibly aromatic and a pretty sound match for most of the food it ended up being paired with.

So ... the food ...

1. amuse-bouche: hazelnut and yeast foam, baby squid
The hazelnut and yeast foam was absolutely delicious. I ate/drank half of it before eating the squid and then returning to the foam. It would probably be the ultimate 'drink' to have before bed.

2. white onion risotto with parmesan air and espresso
This was really lovely too. The mix of parmesan, espresso and onion worked incredibly well - which shouldn't really be a surprise, since onions can be so sweet. The sweetness of the onion was really nicely cut by the tartness of the espresso and the parmesan, while balancing out the bitterness of the coffee.

3. langoustines with foie gras and cocoa muesli
Andy had to put aside his ethical issues with foie gras to munch his way through this dish ... and he survived - just - with the comment that the restaurant could serve him a 'whole bucket' of the dish! The langoustines were little fat succulent numbers and the foie gras in cocoa muesli was an absolute revelation. I love foie gras so this is not entirely balanced, however, the cocoa added a really impressive depth and richness to the liver and the muesli added a really lovely balancing crunch. The only way I can describe it is to imagine eating the best butter truffle ever, and have it be more rich and creamy, with little sweet crunchy bits on the outside. Mmmm. I think you could serve these little balls of foie gras rolled in crunchy, chocolatey stuff as a truffle with coffee and most people wouldn't know the difference.

4. home cured duck
This was also fabulous - no outrageous or unconventional combinations here - just lots of duck, both cured and also what tasted like some cold, confit duck. Plus, a lovely piece of duck crackling. At the time, this was the dish I did the most lip smacking over, but it was also the dish I managed to forget I'd eaten the next day!!!

5. John Dory with cock's crest, crispy chicken skin and parsnip puree
OK - the cock's crest was a bit scary looking - so I left it til almost last ... the combination of the John Dory, the parsnip puree and some apple rolled in pistachio nuts was absolutely brilliant. Nothing fancy had been done to the John Dory - simply pan fried, and it was delicious on its own or in combination with the puree. The cock's crest ... it looked a bit wobbly and scary ... and tasted like a big juicy piece of bacon!!! The crispy chicken skin was incredibly light and crispy, although in some ways maybe a little superfluous to the remainder of the dish.

6. saddle of lamb with quinoa and lamb's heart
The lamb was cooked absolutely faultlessly. I actually found the quinoa a little overwhelming (I'm not a huge fan anyway), so ended up eating the lamb first and quinoa second. The lamb's heart, on puree, was also very tasty (and not presented as a whole heart, in case you're squeamish).

We declined the offer of cheese (extra cost) and by this stage we were drinking a very nice gamay from Beaujolais, the 2002 Fleurie "La Madone" D Jean Marc Despres. Andy much preferred this red to the gewurztraminer.

7. seven textures of milk
Pudding number one was very ... interesting. I can't honestly say whether I liked it or not ... it was so unusual. Lumpy milk is rather alarming, even if it is sweet, and I found the milk ice-cream incredibly salty, though Andy couldn't work out what I was pulling faces at!

8. coconut parfait with liquorice and black cardamom icecream
This was the pudding Andy hoped we wouldn't get, on account of the coconut (doesn't stop him eating ANZAC biscuits!), but the parfait was delicious and covered in lightly toasted coconut. We both agreed that the icecream was delicious.

At this point we rolled ourselves up to the bar and rounded off our meal with a grappa.

As you can (hopefully) tell, we enjoyed the meal immensely. The food is absolutely fantastic and Anthony's gets put ahead of The Square on my food leaderboard. However, the service in the restaurant is really something that needs to get sorted out. Both the sommelier and the maitre d' are a credit to the restaurant (the sommelier in particular).

I felt on Saturday night the restaurant was simply understaffed - at times it even looked like the service was in chaos. Some of the staff just simply weren't up to speed - for example, we finished our first half bottle of wine just as we finished a course. I would have expected the sommelier to appear and help us choose our second bottle, which would be opened and ready to go before the next course arrived. It didn't happen. And I find this particularly amazing, since restaurants must make a lot of money on alcohol, so it must be in their interests to get you drinking!

When I asked our waitress (well, she was one of the people serving us) for the sommelier she looked a bit confused and I was left to eventually catch his eye. We ended up being served by just about every member of staff, which has the potential to add to confusion and chaos.

Another rather irksome thing is that, as seems to be quite typical in English restaurants, the food appeared to be served at lightning pace. If I'm going to enjoy 7 courses I do not want them all to come out one after another - I might want to discuss and savour my food, rather than feel that I have to shovel it down! And I certainly want to be able to go to the toilet between courses without food being delivered to my table and left to go cold! The gaps between courses, in addition to being too short, were really quite erratic, and considering that our table didn't seem to be required for a second sitting, there was just no excuse for not pacing the meal sensibly.

Service complaints aside (and I hope they don't mean the restaurant misses out on a Michelin star as the food deserves one), our dinner at Anthony's was fantastic and we were able to eat some genuinely interesting and unusual food - both in terms of raw ingredients and combinations. I challenge most diners to go to Anthony's and think 'oh well, I could have done that at home!'.

Anthony's Restaurant, 19 Boar Lane, Leeds, LS1 6EA, reservations on 0113 245 5922 or through the website. For Friday or Saturday bookings you will need to book well in advance (allow 2 months).

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